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There
is little tradition of artistic craftsmanship in Ladakh,
most luxury articles in the past having been obtained through imports.
The Government has set up height altitude farms for the breeding
of the goats in the higher reaches of Kashmir and Ladakh. Wool is
sheared of these goats twice a year and maximum wool do come locally
from the tribals of Ladakh.
The exception is the village of Chiling, about
19 km up the Zanskar river from Nimo. Here, a community of metal
workers who are said to be the descendants of artisans brought from
Nepal in the mid-l7th century to build one of the gigantic Buddha-
images at Shey, carry on their hereditary vocation. Working in silver,
brass and copper, they produce exquisite items for domestic and
religious use: tea and chang pots, teacup-stands and lids, hookah-
bases, ladles and bowls and, occasionally,
silver
chorten for installation in temples and domestic shrines. Those
who cannot afford the expensive ware of the Chiling craftsmen, are
supplied by local blacksmiths (gara), with the bowls and cooking
pots they need for everyday use, as well as with agricultural implements.
The gara also make the large and ornate iron stoves seen in kitchens
of the richer Ladakhi homes.
In general, craftsmanship has not developed beyond
the production of everyday items for personal and domestic use.
Pattu, the rough, warm, woollen material used for
clothing is made from locally produced wool, spun by women on drop-spindles,
and woven by semi-professional weavers on portable looms set up
in the winter sunshine, or under the shade of a tree in summer.
Baskets, for the transport of any kind of burden - manure for the
fields, fresh vegetables, even babies - are woven out of willow
twigs, or a particular variety of grass. Woodwork is confined largely
to the production of pillars and carved lintels for the houses,
and the low carved tables or Chog-tse that are a feature
of every Ladakhi living-room.
Many such items, together with others recently introduced as part
of the development process, are available in the District Handicrafts
Centre at Leh, which exists to train local people as well as to
market their products. There you can find, in addition to traditional
objects, a few special items like pashmina shawl (rough
compared with those produced in Srinagar), but soft and warm as
only pure pashmina can be; and carpets in designs and techniques
borrowed from Tibet. Similar carpets are also to be had at the Tibetan
Refugee Centre at Choglamsar. The Handicrafts Centre also has a
department of thangka painting. These icons on cloth are
executed in accordance with strict traditional guidelines handed
down the generations. In the same tradition are the mural paintings
in the monasteries, where semi-professionals, both monks
and laymen, toil to keep the walls decorated with images symbolising
various aspects of Buddhism. The skill of building religious statues
is also not extinct. The gigantic image of Maitreya Buddha
was installed in Thiksey Gompa as recently as the early 1980s.
Knitting, weaving, cabinet-making, painting ........ these crafts
have an important place in traditional Ladakhi society.
In summer, in the shady regions by the Indus and in Nubra, wool
is spun and winter blankets are woven. As soon as wintry weather
arrives , the clicking of needles accompanies the gentle growl of
the heating stove. The dress of the men, a long robe of cotton or
wool, the goncha, is dark, but those of the women are veritable
masterpieces in blue, red and gold. Embroidered dresses and the
ceremonial headgear, the perak, cover the resplendent backs with
hair covered with turquoise.
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